Two Africas

I arrived in Moshi, Tanzania, five days ago after three days of travel involving a ferry and four planes. Included in my 160 lbs of luggage were 6 sleeping bags, an enormous dining tent, ultra-violet lamps for water purification, 1000 ft of parachute cord, some smoked salmon and wild mushrooms (dropped with family in Boston), and lots of gear to be distributed to porters. I settled into the Springlands Hotel, my base for the next three months while I guide some Kilimanjaro trips for Alaska Mountain Guides. The Springlands is the base for Zara Tours, the local outfit we work with in Tanzania. It is a logistical wonder, employing some 150 guides, 800 porters, and loads of other staff. Every morning, a series of Land Rovers pull in and Massai workers draped in their colorful shukas load the roofs with bags. Clients from around the world are whisked off to Kili or on a safari or to the airport. The grounds of the compound are beautiful- loads of flowers and birds along the meandering pathways. Everyone is incredibly friendly and helpful and patient with a newcomer's attempts at Swahili. There is a pool where hip young Europeans mix with an assortment of North Americans to sip cocktails in the shade. The entire operation is under the watchful eye of Mama Zainab- a pioneering Tanzanian businesswoman. She is warm and welcoming and runs a tight ship. Just beyond the walled compound is Tanzania- impoverished, dusty, and beautiful. If you venture out you will come to a little neighborhood centered around an enormous baobab tree. My American colleague Caleb took me to meet some friends at the bodega that is the social center of the community. His friend Baragash lead us to a little shack near the dalla-dalla stop. We sat on low stools as a young woman spread a huge lunch before us- ugali (a sort of African polenta), some stinky little lake fish, delicious kale, beans, rice, and tripe. We took chapatis (there is a huge Indian influence in East Africa) and wrapped everything up with avocado picked up along the way. The result- a huge multi ethnic "burrito" that dribbled down our arm and gave the chickens something to do. It was delicious and the bill was $1.50 for three. After lunch we grabbed some of the local banana cider and walked across some fields opposite the Springlands. Huge maribou storks soared above us and the air was sweet with wild mint. We sat by a lovely spring under an enormous ficus tree and watched a huge train of ants build a bridge ( out of ants!) to get across the waterway. People came by to gather water, bathe, or eat lunch. Beyond the spring are huge rice fields. The Chagga people of this region have historically been more wealthy than their neighbors because of the fertile soil and irrigation potential afforded by Mt. Kilimanjaro towering above. Sometimes at dawn, when I leave the compound i'll catch a view of the peak coming out of the clouds, its glaciers just catching the first light. Nepahenda hapa- I love it here! In one hour we leave for the first climb- Caleb, myself, Tanzanian guide Simon, two clients from Tennessee and some porters. I've been up for hours,my pack checked and re-checked. Hakuna matata!