Gore-Tex Refugees

An international kayak expedition/course is always a big endeavor. There is a tremendous amount of gear to gather and prepare. There is route planning and charts to pour over. There are permits to clear, menus to plan, food to pack, kayaks to procure and check, electronics to charge and dry bags to pack. Students need to arrive from all over the place with luggage intact. In our case here in Patagonia, the Navy must be placated through meetings and gear checks. The weather must cooperate, to a certain extent. Then the last dry bag is somehow crammed into an already full hatch and the last kayak is coaxed from shore.You feel the water take over and the grab of the paddle. Now there are other concerns- safety, schedule, group dynamics- but it's really just you and the sea, town worries fade away and the rhythm of the tides and wind takes over. If you get there......
We have another hurdle to mount, one completely beyond our control. I am in Puerto Natales, where the course is to begin and end, while the students are in the larger gateway city of Punta Arenas. The strike has completely cut off the two, stranding hundreds, maybe thousands of foreigners and throwing a big fat monkey wrench into our plans. What seemed to be a small protest against a natural gas price hike, has dragged on and morphed into a regional crisis. It's almost completely peaceful, but has already proved to be a huge inconvenience for visitors to Patagonia at the height of the summer season. People can't get to or from Torres del Paine National Park, or to the airport to catch flights home. Food is often difficult to find because most business are closed. When stores are open, supplies are starting to run a bit thin.
Yesterday, with no resolution in sight, many tourists chose to shoulder their backpacks and walk 15 miles to the Argentine border. They were successful after a long day's hike, but others from my hostel who tried to walk to the Park ended up coming back after many hours. They had hoped to catch a sympathetic ride on the far side of the blockade, but cars have stopped coming after many were harassed and vandalized.
Two days ago a meeting with the local governor was called for foreigners stuck here in Puerto Natales. So many people showed up (400-500) that it had to be moved outside. The crowd was tense and somewhat angry, shouting that we were being held hostage. Someone yelled, "you got the miners out faster than us", to much laughter and applause. "We are hostages! You are using us as a bargaining tool in your conflict!" others yelled. All was very dramatic. De facto group leaders emerged and gave impassioned declarations. I was frustrated too, but thought a little perspective was in order. Sure, people have been inconvenienced, but come on, this is not Darfur. You are trapped in a place with restaurants serving king crab and roast lamb and good wine and there are nice beds to sleep in.
The governor said that, as a party in the dispute, he couldn't help, and so was calling in the Red Cross. Now, after two days the Red Cross is organizing some evacuation flights this afternoon. Hundreds of people are lining up with their luggage at a makeshift shelter.
Unfortunately, since I'm trying to get students in, not out, this is not a help to us. All six students made it in to the Punta Arenas airport in the last two days. They were forced to walk many hours into town, but are all together at our hostel there. Punta Arenas is the center of the opposition and the town is filled with street blockades and big demonstrations. I guess it's an early exercise in team-building for the group.
Yesterday brought a brief ray of hope when the government caved on its initial plan to increase fuel rates by 17%, and offered a 3% increase. Unbelievably, this compromise was refused and the strike continues. The latest news is that all businesses in the region will close on Monday. Ay yi yi!
If only we can get the students here and out on the water, all will be fine.....